View Full Version : French foods style at Wireless Road

Kanok Karn
13th November 2010, 08:24
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Café Tar tine fills a gap left wide open with La Boulanger’s demise in Soi Convent. While some may picture French food as incredibly complicated, smaller Parisian cafés don’t even have a kitchen, and do little more than a sandwich, a croquet monsieur and some kind of salad. Have it with an Or angina or a Perrier and you’ve got a typical French student or busy professional’s everyday lunch. Is it the kind of stuff you’d want to enjoy with your date, in the evening? Probably not, and Café Tar tine closes at 8pm anyway. But we’re jealous of office workers within walking distance of Café Tar tine’s solid sandwiches, soups, quiches and salads, and of residents who can pop in for a B99 breakfast (café latte, orange juice, croissant). The rest of us will probably head here for leisurely weekend lunches, although you’ll have to make it early to enjoy bestsellers like quiche Lorraine or the pain au chocolate. (Get a stiff Bloody Mary, too! B120.) The French manager is half the ambience, greeting one and all with a triumphant “Bonjour!” and calling orders out to the chef. The beige wood cabinets, rows of Ricard bottles and Gallic soundtrack do the rest. But while Café Tar tine gets an A on atmosphere, the food is only a notch above average. The salad Nicosia, although generous and well-seasoned, contains fairly bland vegetables, and we’d have liked anchovies to brighten things up. (Tip: ask them for bread to go with that.) The croquet Madame (a grilled ham, cheese and béchamel open sandwich, B220) may come on a tasty slice of sourdough bread, but neither the ham nor the béchamel are anything to write home about. Desserts are very solid though, like the tarter tat in, a pleasant combination of acidic applies and a blend of slightly bitter caramel, sweet caramel sauce and crème Auglaize on the side. The crème Brule, too, is great. This is a café: manage your expectations and you’re in for an affordable, very chill and very Francis moment.

Café Tartine
Athenee Residence, 65/2 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd.
Nearest train: BTS Phloen Chit
Tel: 02-168-5464
Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat-Sun 9am-8pm